Distinctly Montana Magazine

W W W. D I S T I N C T LY M O N TA N A . C O M 17 CONTINUED ST. REGIS LAKES e headwaters of the St. Regis River, the snow-fed St. Regis Lakes provide icy refreshment all summer long. e 5.4-mile roundtrip trip to the lakes crosses and recrosses the shallow St. Regis River several times past old mining detritus and avalanche slopes that cascade with color — from the many-hued mountain flowers of early summer to the crimson and purple of huckleberries at its end. Subalpine firs and steep meadows surround St. Regis Lake, limiting shoreline access, but anglers willing to work the shore will find a hardy population of vigorous fish. Numerous tiny waterfalls from late-melting snowfields feed the lake and keep it bracingly cold; although the shoreline boulders and immediate drop-off in lake depth invite a dive, most hikers will be scrambling for shore after only a few seconds. From the lower lake, a faint boot path proceeds west a half mile to shallow Upper St. Regis Lake. From here, peak baggers can scramble out of the brush and up steep avalanche chutes to Stevens Peak, which peers down onto Upper Stevens Lake. DRIVING DIRECTIONS: From Interstate 90, take exit 0 (Lookout Pass) south. At the stop sign, turn left onto FR 7896. Continue 1 mile to a steep, rocky spur road on the right. If you don't have a high-clearance vehicle park here; otherwise, proceed uphill 0.1 mile to the trailhead. HAZEL AND HUB LAKES Tiny Hazel and Hub Lakes occupy a steep, flower- choked slope high on the Bitterroot Divide. But they are only part of the scenic appeal of this six-mile roundtrip hike. e trail passes gargantuan cedars that escaped the 1910 Great Burn and a scenic view of the dramatic 60-foot Dipper Falls. Only occasionally steep, this hike is ideal for kids and canine companions. Hub is the smaller but more scenic of the two lakes, its shores, bounded by beargrass and huckleberries, perfect for a quick overnight stay. Ambitious hikers can climb a mile and another thousand feet to the Stateline Trail on the divide, and from there follow a faint footpath to Ward and Eagle Peaks for even bet- ter views of the endless pickets of the Bitterroots. DRIVING DIRECTIONS: From St. Regis, travel west on I-90 to exit 25 (Drexel). Get back on I-90 and head east to exit 26 (Ward Creek). (e Ward Creek exit is only accessible to eastbound travelers. Travelers head- ing west after the hike will have to drive east to exit 28 and turn around.) From exit 26, travel south on Ward Creek Road (FR 889) for 6.25 miles to its crossing of Ward Creek and the trailhead. e road shoulder accommodates parking for several vehicles. The southern stretch of the Montana Bitterroots tends to grab all the glory with their chasm-like canyons and cloud-catching crags; the iconic prominences of St. Mary Peak, Lolo Peak and their kin are plainly visible to travelers on Highway 93 through the Bitterroot River Valley. But the northern reaches of the Bitterroots — the area bounded roughly by Lolo and Lookout Passes on the Idaho/Montana border — offer their own quietly rugged charm. Dozens of lakes dot the landscape, many of them accessed via anyone-can-do-it trails. Although for the most part below treeline, the ridges boast expansive vistas, thanks to the catastrophic wildfires of the 1910 "Great Burn", the 3-million-acre blaze that left a patchwork of forested and flower-clad ridges. e combination of quiet subalpine lakes and done-in-a-day hikes makes the northern Bitterroots one of the best spots in the state for a hiking vacation. e five hikes below showcase the splendor of the "other" Bitterroots. F I N D Y OU R A D V E N T U R E • SP I R I T A N D I N S P I R A T I O N • Article and Photos By AARON THEISEN NORTHERN BITTERROOT RANGE

• Cover