Distinctly Montana Magazine

THE S lices of roast pork, cut beautifully and dipped well into a bowl of sesame seeds after a plunge into mustard so spicy it blasts the brains into clarity from the back of the throat—now that warms the belly and the spirit. MUSTARD SEED FAITHFUL BY GLENDA WALLACE "When I go into the Mustard Seed in Missoula," says Ca- reer Counselor Cindy Boies, "I enjoy the atmosphere. The ceilings are high, but it's not a noisy place. And, given that it has a minimalist setting, it's not tinny sounding." One to notice things like that: the floors (polished painted concrete) and artwork (local artist Timothy Lane), Cindy was my entrée to the Mustard Seed many moons ago, when there was only one restaurant with the evoca- tive name and the indelible Asian flare. Today, there are two. The original is found in the heart of Missoula—through a distinctive brick-fronted entrance to Southgate Mall. The other is in Spokane, Washington, at Northgate Mall. In and between these two river cities, the Mustard Seed partnership also operates eight fast-casual outlets, called Noodle Express in Billings and Great Falls. This Asian Bowl approach allows them to offer a smaller menu, but the same healthy, affordable, and, possibly, addictive meals. I'm serious. Take the Chicken Osaka—she of the fluffy rice and creamy sauce—as an example. "Customers tell us that, that they think we put something addictive in our food," says Tim Leegan, general manager of the Missoula restaurant. (For the record: They don't.) "It's about consistency," he says. "We're making good quality food out of great ingredients. We make everything from scratch. Nothing sits around. Nothing sits overnight, or three days. All our soups, salads, our desserts, including the ice cream—we prepare everything for that day." 50 "We always have specials," Tim says. "Right now, we have an Ahi Tuna Wrap, Crab Wontons, and a really nice beef dish, Singapore Beef. We've always got something new." In fact, the chefs compete regularly for a spot on the menu. I confess that every time I visit, I order the same meal: Chinese Roast Pork appetizer, followed by the golden Osaka…poured over perfect chicken morsels bathed in their own haunting sauce…and beneath it all, that tender rice. And maybe, if there's time, a plum wine. Cindy understands. "When I lunch there, I always have the Chinese Roast Pork and a salad with ginger dressing," she says. "For dinner, I always have the Osaka." Her husband, Mark, favors the Fireworks Shrimp—a gor- geous meal that now tops my "Order Next Time from the Mustard Seed" list. Right after the Poppy Seed Cake. Tim says, "That's why our family-style dining is so popu- lar. In a group, you can try something else at the table." Happy Hour (4 to 6) is another low-commitment ap- proach. "The regulars particularly like the dim sum," he says. "The bar's full every night" because of these "small plates." Exclusive to Happy Hour, they let you sample the hot wings, spring rolls, wontons, pot stickers, ribs, and other items. Perhaps as dessert, you can try one of their signature drinks: the martini. "We have a huge martini menu," Tim says. "We have a S'mores Martini: crushed graham crackers and chocolate on the rim. We do a Carrot Cake Martini, with cream cheese frosting on the glass. We do a martini where we hand-stuff the olives with blue cheese." My "Next Time" list grows again. But, whom am I kidding? My very next opportunity— DISTINCTLY MONTANA • SPRING 2012

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