Distinctly Montana Magazine

Byway Explore MOUNTAINS the Scenic BY PHIL KNIGHT PIONEER MOUNTAINS SCENIC BYWAY PIONEER LOOP TRAILHEAD STINE CREEK PIONEER LOOP TRAILHEAD PETTENGILL CREEK LODGEPOLE LACY CREEK PIONEER LOOP TRAILHEAD LITTLE JOE MEADOWS LITTLE JOE CRYSTAL PARK ELKHORN HOT SPRINGS COOLIDGE N POLARIS 22 FOURTH OF JULY PETTENGILL BOULDER CREEK FH 73 WISE RIVER PIONEER PHIL KNIGHT prawling over 3.35 million acres, eight counties and over a dozen mountain ranges, the Beaverhead-Deerlodge is Montana's biggest national forest. At its heart rise the Pioneer Mountains—actually two ranges in one. The West Pioneers are the older, more rounded mountains (but still plenty rugged), topping out at 9,405 feet on Odell Mountain. Higher still, climb the steep, alpine East Pioneers, with the twin peaks of Torrey and Tweedy (11,147 and 11,154 feet) looming like some massive Tweedledee and Tweedledum over the lush Ruby River valley. Slicing through the middle of this immense piece of Montana high coun- S try is the Pioneer Scenic Route, Forest Service Highway 73. This 49-mile road offers unparalleled access to mountain wilderness, rushing rivers, deep forests, wide meadows, remote lakes, ghost towns, campgrounds, and miles and miles of national forest trails. The road is open from May 15 to Decem- ber 1, when it becomes a major destination for snowmobilers. The Pioneer Scenic Byway starts in the little fly-fishing town of Wise River, along the Big Hole River, where floating and fishing are a way of life. Montana's last population of fluvial arctic grayling survives in this river, originally called "Wisdom River" by Lewis and Clark. Crossing wide sagebrush flats, the road soon enters the mountains proper, paralleling the smaller Wise River. Here you will find the best of both worlds: a smooth, well-built road tra- versing remote mountain country. This combination draws campers, hikers, bikers, and fishers from all over western Montana. The road reaches a high point of nearly 8,000 feet, with stunning views of the granite crags and spires of the East Pioneers rising over alpine meadows and subalpine fir. Crystal Park, near the divide between the Wise River and Grasshopper Creek, is the only mineral area set aside on National Forest System lands DISTINCTLY MONTANA • AUTUMN 2011 WYMAN CREEK GOLD CREEK BIG HOLE RIVER GRASSHOPPER CREEK

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