Distinctly Montana Magazine

w w w . d i s t i n c t l y m o n t a n a . c o m 17 their job well, they just caught the calf by both rear hocks. Grab just one hock, though, and a calf might get injured when dragging it to the center of the corral for branding. And miss altogether, which also happens, you must spool the rope again and start the process all over. A smooth-running branding team with many helpers and an experienced group of volunteers can gather, sort, and brand an average of over 100 calves per hour. But if you don't have enough people willing to get their hands, and knees, and butts dirty holding calves to the ground, the process moves more slowly. There always seems to be an abundance of riders who want to rope; roping is fun. Wrestling, on the other hand, is a less desirable task, but no one complains. This, after all, is the cowboy way. And the only complaining that usually takes place on branding day is when someone grabs the last can of soda or beer. Regardless how hard the work is, with very few exceptions, almost everyone is laugh- ing and smiling. Yes, the branding itself is important. It is the reason, after all, everyone has gathered. But there are other ingredients integral to the culture of branding, too. One is food. Doug Mitchell, who has ranched with his family near Cleveland, Montana, for decades, is known in these parts about as much for his cinnamon buns as he is for his kind demeanor and gentle grin. Not long after the cattle are gath- ered and tucked away into the corral, cowboys and cowgirls and helpers of all ages take a break from the opening sal- vo of work, and the bedlam of mooing, to eat some food to fuel themselves for the long day ahead. Mitchell's cinnamon buns are famous. And for good reason. Not only because Mitchell is one of the best cooks in Blaine County, but also because he knows the key to getting good help: good food. After the first batch of cattle has been sorted, roped, brand- ed, and counted, lunch soon follows. Lunch is typically the most pedestrian meal of the day, and it is often consumed quickly. Twenty or 30 minutes quickly. A few layers of lunch meat and cheese between two slices of white bread, a hand- ful of chips, and soda or water to wet the whistle is often the go-to meal. One might wonder if such a ubiquitous menu is wise since food is so important for recruiting help. But like everything on Montana's ranches, there is usually a purpose. You see, one does not want to wrestle cattle on a full stom- ach. It only slows the time it takes to complete the long list of tasks ahead. But there is an even better reason. On most

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