Distinctly Montana Magazine
Issue link: https://digital.distinctlymontana.com/i/1090885
D I S T I N C T L Y M O N T A N A M A G A Z I N E • S P R I N G 2 0 1 9 32 trucks or by torching gigantic burn piles, the natural ability of the soil to retain moisture is re- moved. As a result we are caught in a downward spiral of lost soil carbon and the resulting loss of moisture. Yet the "clearcut and burn" mentality of 20th century logging has not changed to reflect our diminished soil carbon, and so our forests get drier and the soils more bare. Snowmelt is the one reliable source of moisture that has not changed since the glacial era, and an entire ecosystem of fungi have evolved to exploit this liquid treasure. In the Northern Rockies, we have two different fungal universes: one that de- pends on the rain or snow in the fall, the other on spring melt water. Morels and other Ascomycetes (cup fungi) dominate the spring season, although a lesser number of Basidiomycetes (mushrooms with gills or pores) do manage to make a showing. THE FUSS "Why are morels so good?" people ask me. "Why does a dog wag its tail?" I reply. ese devoted fungi live for decades in the shade of Douglas fir, mycelia running through decaying logs and duff, producing sclerotia (resting bod- ies) that may wait underground for years before changes in the environment trigger them to produce the coveted morel. Once they are up, morels persist for two to four weeks if they can survive attacks by humans, wildlife, and dry conditions. While we see evidence of occasional nibbles by deer, most mammals have scant interest in the pinecone- shaped mushroom. Invertebrates are another matter. Species of Mycetophila flies lay eggs on morels, and their tiny worm-like larvae can be found on late season survivors. True bugs, mil- lipedes, and especially thrips (ysanoptera) and springtails (Collembola) chomp through morels so voraciously that they can decimate a harvest in 48 hours, even in the refrigerator. Snails and slugs are also fond of morels, and their gnawing slimy activity is evident to the experienced eye. But raw morels are not food for people. Tre- halose sugars are a metabolite that cannot be digested by people, but our intestinal bacteria devour them so quickly that they produce large and painful quantities of gas for humans foolish enough to consume them uncooked. A few minutes in hot butter, however, carmelizes these sugars and eliminates indigestion. No discussion of morel edibility is complete without a recipe. My favorite is stuffed morels. e smart chef selects only fist-sized units, the easier to pack in the filling. ose with less selection may use a piping bag to squirt filling into iddy-biddy morels. My favorite stuffing is moose meat, but ingredients like spinach, feta, pine nuts, onion, cream cheese, and hamburger can also produce a fine appetizer. IN 2003, LARRY EVANS AND SINGER-SONGWRITER ZOE WOOD RELEASED THE "FUNGAL BOOGIE" CD, FOLLOWED IN 2006 WITH "FUNGAL BOOGIEMAN," A COLLABORATION WRITTEN BY LARRY AND RECORDED WITH VARIOUS MISSOULA ARTISTS. IN 2009, HE WAS FEATURED IN RON MANN'S COMEDY DOCUMENTARY FILM KNOW YOUR MUSHROOMS. Larry Evans in the burn. Courtesy of the author